Our step by step jacket alterations with this Brunello Cucinelli jacket to show the work that goes into creating the perfect fit.
Brunello Cucinelli Jacket Alterations
It's important to feel like you are wearing a garment rather than its wearing you. Getting the perfect fitting jacket is a particular coup for the fall fashion season.
There are lots of reasons to opt for jacket alterations. Perhaps you've bought a great new item and want it tweaked to fit better. Likewise, you could have found a great vintage jacket and want it to match you.
Alternatively, it could be a favourite jacket but your body shape has changed. Then again, you may want a few tweaks to your wardrobe to keep up with current fashion trends.
Whatever the reason, jacket alterations can give greater ease of movement, comfort and the best fit. The tailoring work we did on this Brunello Cucinelli jacket is the most common request we get. See it from start to finish.
Step One: Jacket Fitting
The aim of our Brunello Cucinelli jacket alterations was to shorten the sleeves from the shoulders and narrow them. It all had begun with a jacket fitting with our client.
We measure the amount to shorten and mark the shoulders' seams with white thread. Then mark the sleeves' seams.
We shortened from the shoulder because the cuff details have buttons and we wanted to keep them in proportion to the cuff. As a result, our work will be invisible when the jacket alterations are complete.
Step Two: Removing the Sleeves
Next we unpick the sleeves and place this Brunello Cucinelli jacket on the mannequin to work on the sleeves properly.
A close-up on the inside of the jacket shows the different layers that go into creating its shape. You can see the shoulder pads, canvas and lining.
We're only shortening the sleeves by three centimetres which means that working from the shoulder won't affect the width of the sleeves. Therefore the biceps and elbows match-up with the arm.
Step Three: Prepping the Sleeves
The unpicked sleeves and their linings are laid flat to press in order to be cut. This allows for precise work.
The sleeves are then laid flat on the cutting table with one on top of the other. This allows symmetry between the two sleeves when they're cut.
A tailor marks the sleeves with a chalk line on the fabric. The line follows the original shape of the sleeves carefully including the seam allowance. This magic tool disappears when it's steamed.
Step Four: Cutting the Sleeves
Our tailor Ela carefully cuts along the chalk line at the top of the sleeves. She will then do the same with the lining. Now they're ready for the sewing machine.
Step Five: Closing the Sleeves
Ela uses the sewing machine to stitch the inside seams on the sleeves. She will then press the seam allowances so they're open and flat.
Along with the smooth and flat finish, the chalk lines will disappear.
Step Six: Narrowing the Shoulders
Before Ela can reapply the sleeves she has to narrow the shoulders. She starts with the cutting line on the arm holes.
She will cut the canvas at the front and reduce the shoulders' pads so it keeps to the original shape of the sleeves.
Step Seven: Reapplying the Sleeves
Ela reapplies the sleeves and checks her work by following the notches to keep the original shape of the sleeves. The key is to let the sleeves hang and if they sit slightly towards the front then the shape is good. In the tailoring trade we call it pitching the sleeve.
Step Eight: Quality Control
Before we deliver tailored clothing to our clients we always quality check the garments. Our workroom manager, Sue, is in-charge of this process.
She puts her hands inside the sleeves to make sure the lining is not twisted. She then closes the jacket on the mannequin to check the sleeves hang correctly.
Sue also checks the top stitching and all the details and finishing both inside and outside. As Coco Chanel famously said, “Elegance is when the inside is as beautiful as the outside.”
She finally measures the inside seam length on both sleeves. This includes ensuring they are the same length and are shortened the correct amount.
These Brunello Cucinelli jacket alterations stand up to scrutiny and it's ready to be returned to our client.