Our top tips for designer men's suit tailoring and alterations with work in our studio, wedding suit advice and red carpet suits.
Designer Men's Suit Tailoring and Alterations
The modern men's suit has evolved into a staple of every wardrobe since its arrival in the 19th century. It's defined by different pieces made from the same material.
Finding the right cut, fabric and suit tailoring is a must especially for wedding suits and red carpet suits. Here's how to get a tailored suit and our most recent work.
There are lots of ways to check if men's suits fit correctly but the best way is through bespoke tailoring. Here's how we tailor suits according to our clients' needs.
Suit Jacket Alterations
The most common designer suit tailoring for jacket alterations are:
Shortening the sleeves from the shoulder is the preferred method. The cuff can pose issues with recreating buttonholes.
The maximum a suit jacket can be shortened from the shoulder is usually 5cm. This is because at that amount the width of the sleeves of the jacket can be affected. Therefore we have to shorten the rest from the cuff to keep the balance.
In terms of proportions, the classic way is when the shirt is between 1cm and 2cm longer than the cuff of the jacket. This keeps the balance with the rest of the tailored suit.
This suit tailoring takes two or three hours, as does narrowing the shoulders or sleeves. Keeping the right dimensions is paramount to men's suit alterations.
Finally, squaring the back of the neck may be needed when the suit isn't sitting properly.
Suit Trouser Alterations
The most common designer suit tailoring for trouser alterations are:
There are many ways to shorten and finish the hem on suit trousers. They all depend on the initial design of the trousers combined with the taste of the owner.
There's plain with blind stitches which are the most popular. This can be done by machine or by hand. We choose the latter for a more quality, high-end finish.
There is plain with tape. The tape is an old tailor trick around the back half of a trouser hem, on the inside. Now it's mainly used in luxury clothing and can be easily replaced by us.
There are details like turn-ups that we reapply as original. These take up between 30 minutes and an hour to shorten.
We usually recommend a small break at the shoes but trousers tend to become more and more tight at the hem. As a result, it's better to stop the hem before the shoes for a more elegant finish. See Will Poulter at the Oscars (below) for an ankle finish.
We can also lengthen trousers using the existing hem. We begin by opening it and lengthening. In some circumstances we add a panel or turn-up with our work remaining invisible. This is a longer job than shortening the hem.
Finally tapering the legs is a common trouser alteration as well. For suit, you have to tape inside and outside leg of the same amount to keep the balance. It allows the owner to get the perfect fit according to their particular shape.
Wedding Suit Fittings
A wedding suit is arguably the most important and formal sartorial offering. Like other tailored suits, we often perform between one and three fittings to create the perfect fit.
First Suit Fitting
We look at the general fit, at how many alterations are needed, whether it's over to the side or too tight. Then we start work on the biggest job.
Second Suit Fitting
The second suit fitting involves looking at the completed big suit alterations, the length and proportions. Next, we tweak any changes that are needed, such as the hem. This, however, depends on how complex the suit tailoring was.
Third Suit Fitting
The final fitting sees a last check of the trouser hem when needed and meeting any needs fedback from the client.
Red Carpet Suits
Get fashion inspiration and see our work from the red carpet suits we've tailored in our studio.
(Image from BuzzFeed)
The always elegant Stanley Tucci wearing an Italian Isaia Napoli suit we fitted at the BAFTAs 2016. Shoulders, sleeves and hem, on point.
Spectre Première Berlin
(Main image from Posta)