Fashion Weeks SS16 Highlights

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The ready-to-wear fashion weeks SS16 have been in full swing. See our highlights from our clients and beyond.

Fashion Weeks SS16 Highlights

Once you could hardly avoid overhearing quips of, “Florals? For Spring? Groundbreaking.” People trying their best to imitate Meryl Streep's iconic role as Miranda Priestly. Now that's all shifting.

The fashion industry is evolving, it's becoming more global and with that the seasonal fashion weeks are becoming more dynamic. Outerwear is in. Trends are merging and re-emerging. Fashion houses scramble to find finer fabrics and mould them into seasonless wearability.

The "new" spring/summer style is based around cut and undertones rather than colours and prints. It's an exciting time. See how our clients are tackling the new normal.

New York Fashion Week

Oscar de la Renta

(Images from Lujon Magazine, Alexa M Johnson, Telegraph)

Last season saw British designer, Peter Copping take the helm at Oscar de la Renta. He paid tribute to the brand's history whilst adding a touch of youth through lighter luxurious fabrics.

He continued to honour this legacy with the sophisticated and feminine Oscar de la Renta woman. Moreover, Spanish influences were felt throughout the collection reflecting the background of the brand's namesake.

Asymmetrical hemlines defined the collection whether in cut, fabrics or patterns. Whilst corsetry and black lace completed the Latino effect.

If the silhouettes weren't restricted in the torso they were often restrained in the hem. This made a strut worthy of being seen, nonetheless seen after dark. This line was decidedly eveningwear. Watch what the designer had to say.

Michael Kors

(Image from Marie Claire, Harper's Bazaar, Man Repeller)

In contrast, Michael Kors collection was all about wearability. The show opened with a spring coat reflecting the international scope of the brand.

Loose fabrics and strictly two-colour ensembles followed with his unflinching commitment to an American aesthetic. The line-up was then punctuated with Michael Kors swimwear and their menswear.

All in all it was a flourishing and yet laid-back look at the spring to come.

London Fashion Week

Joseph

(Images from Vogue, Joseph, Vogue)

Joseph SS16 began all tied up in block colours. The loose fabrics were wrapped and bound together to create sarong skirts and loose lines.

Fortunately, the collection forewent the toga feel for an altogether more sportswear finish. This then evolved into loose tailoring that borrowed from the boys.

Finally an infusion of eastern influences were seen in the cut of garments with utilitarian strapping in the place of belts.

Burberry Prorsum

(Images from Who What Wear, Grazia, Who What Wear)

Burberry spring/summer 2015 became the first to be shown on social media app, Snapchat. The ground-breaking event showed the house as cutting edge and appealing to a new generation.

Meanwhile, their Functionregalia revolved around juxtapositions, like its title. Firstly, there was an abundance of out-of-season wares to appeal to a broader market.

Military style coats, a statement leather jacket and the occasional cape coat were on the scene with the expected trenches. The outerwear was even worn as outfits by themselves.

Otherwise they were contrasted with lace dresses in warm tones following the lead of their menswear SS16. Burberry continued to play with the masculinity and femininity of fabrics. Then an array of floor-length slip dresses made an appearance.

The delicate, sheer, wisps of dresses inside the practical and yet distinctive coats made for a modern and captivating collection.

Milan Fashion Week

Prada

(Images from Vogue)

After the bubblegum colours of Prada AW15 the new season sees much more muted tones but by no means quieter. The focus remained on tailoring with exciting and unexpected uses of fabric and cut.

The show began with off-kilter panelled kilts in tweed, tartan and sheer fabrics. Then the line evolved into bold 70s stripes.

Elongated hems used 20s silhouettes and waistlines whilst pinafore dresses were seen in embellished opaque plastic. Not to mention the lace chokers that began to sprawl over the chest and shoulders.

The unusual mix used by Prada SS16 works wonderfully with each item on the ensemble one-upping the other. A true vision and aesthetic.

Salvatore Ferragamo

(Images from Vogue)

Frills, pleats and feathers created romance at Salvatore Ferragamo SS16. Loose lines and sporty trouser ties gave a languid feel to the image of spring.

Whereas, long hemlines, nipped-in waists and minimal colours made for a strategically low-key offering. The end sense is one of freedom of movement physically and from day to night.

Dsquared2

(Images from Vogue)

Dsquared2 SS16 is where the party was at. Bright, bold colours crash together with swimwear and clubwear.

They've created the wardrobe to rave on a beach and it's not for the feint of heart. It's skin-tight, bikini clad, bedazzled, neon cut-out, tattoo bodysuit party till the sun comes up.

Paris Fashion Week

Lanvin

(Images from Vogue)

The Lanvin SS16 show had a a sense of the unfinished. This was first seen in the set and then echoed in the clothing. There wasn't just raw-edge tweed but also loose threads.

It began buttoned-up and slowly softened into bows until it became a bit undone. It was a journey of creation and progress. Then, fully-sequinned garments dazzled before an explosion of prints.

This line invites outsiders in on the process whilst saying it doesn't end there.

Roland Mouret

(Images from Vogue)

It's ten years on from the revelation that is the Roland Mouret galaxy dress and the fashion designer has now created five new variations in celebration. They, however, closed the show.

It began with a flamenco skirt which sees the Spanish theme in full force this season. This was paired with contrasting colours that ran through the collection.

Regardless, it was the many creations in navy that are at the heart and showed oh-so many shapes. Roland Mouret proved he can make tweaks and discover something new.

Stella McCartney

(Images from Vogue)

The opening of Stella McCartney SS16 felt like a departure from other major motifs explored this season. The full-length sporty plaid dresses in punchy colours were a welcome respite.

Challenging colour combinations on layers of pleating over striped and checked material also continued to engage on a different level. The masculine tailoring, denim and mesh inlays on dresses added some staples to the mix.

Yet, this Stella McCartney line felt like it stood alone and offered a departure from the expected trends.

Louis Vuitton

(Image from Vogue)

The glam grungers of Louis Vuitton were about a generation of youth yet to come. A look into a tough and painfully stylish future.

All-weather leather was a staple of the digital native bad girls particularly leather jackets. Waistcoats, mesh and bubble skirts were not far behind.

Louis Vuitton's youthful appeal has continued for another season and has only got better. If this is the future, it's something to look forward to.

Miu Miu

(Images from Vogue)

Miu Miu SS16 wasn't all about the everyone-is-talking-about-them shoes. It was also about the tailoring. Over-sized man-coats, boxy jackets and pencil skirts were in full force.

The added layers of sheer fabric, knitwear, fur and leather gave the appearance of dress-up. The tiaras completed the illusion.

It's as if the Miu Miu woman has begged, borrowed and stole in an attempt at nonchalance and ready for anything. All dressed up but where to go. Rebels in tailoring.

The clothes seem like something aspirational, to grow into, and just like dress-up, it's about the confidence and attitude.

Contact London Fitting Rooms and join us on Instagram for more fashion moments.

(Main image from Burberry)