London Collections: Men fashion week is back in the capital to show off menswear SS16. We’ve been closely following the action and here’s everything you need to know.
London Collections: Men SS16 Highlights
Men's fashion is going from strength to strength as is their fashion shows with the support of a new generation of consumers. This week saw the seventh biannual London Collections: Men come to the capital from 12 - 15 June.
This year saw LC:M become a four-day event and the word on everyone's lips has been: breadth. Now, the growth of the event that celebrates commercial and high fashion sees a balancing act between the two.
Womenswear, particularly couture, can often flout terms such as wearable. Menswear, on the other hand, can be constricted by it.
Unlike women's fashion, designers are less fuelled by a fantasy or a muse. Rather, they're dressing their demographic and themselves.
There continues to be a contrast between the sartorial splendour of Savile Row and the new daring and experimental wave of designers. Luckily, there are still some risk-takers who break from the pack.
Following the menswear AW15 fashion shows, we couldn't wait to see what fashion trends would be seen this season. Here's all you need to know.
(Christopher Shannon SS16 from The Glass)
The new format for men's fashion shows seems to be formal staples first and then moving towards more casual pieces. This new layout of stylized streetwear closing the show is a complete reverse of womenswear.
Gieves and Hawkes, creative director Jason Basmajian said, “Guys wear T-shirts with suits, outerwear with shorts. You can’t fight that this is how men dress today,” according to Financial Times.
Sportswear in particular continues to be an opposing and reigning force to formalwear in men's fashion and cool casual dominated this season. There was no shortage of fashion designers stepping up to the plate to tackle the mix of fashion forward and laid-back.
Christopher Shannon SS16 used elongated t-shirts, knitwear emblazoned with lighters and neon to demonstrate youthful street style. He also enlisted deconstruction, tears and duct tape to finish the motif.
The quirky sayings of “Damaged,” “Needy” and simply “Shannon” paired with short shorts and bright colours hark to partying days and even more debauched nights. Another success from this fashion designer.
Tom Ford SS16 continued to showcase his more conservative tailored ensembles with recurring nods to 60s chic. Yet, he said goodbye to shearling and instead opted for the now-essential leather jacket. As if Tom Ford could get any cooler.
(Burberry SS16 from F.Tape)
Coach SS16 surprised this season with a younger and more vibrant men's fashion line as shearling was again a thing of the past. Psychedelic prints and tiger fur struck a louder note.
The unexpected skater boy move also added patchwork leather to the new bag of textures. Their reputation of functionality was carefully clung to in the face of eccentric youthful tastes. Where will they go next?
Astrid Andersen, on the other hand, used Eastern influences to mix the masculine and the feminine. Sportswear was trimmed and cut between lace whilst delicate blooms on silk replaced player's numbers.
It was just the right amount of challenging and the juxtaposing imagery merely served to soften the overtly macho in most places. This is the kind of creativity LC:M was made for.
(Sibling SS16 from EQView)
Likewise, Burberry SS16 added lace to their mix as fabrics are used to bend gender expectations. The Guardian is calling it a return to the British heritage of dandyism. Menswear staples like suits were paired with lace shirts and enviable man-bags.
Burberry's take on this fabric was more feminine in design and yet its historical significance fit right in with the brand's iconic pieces. It's a testament to LC:M that such an established fashion house is still pushing boundaries.
Craig Green has been touted as a fashion designer to watch over his relatively few years in the industry. Now, his utilitarian wrap jackets and flailing straps will become available in women's sizes.
Unlike his contemporaries who took this opportunity to slip in their womenswear pre-collections on to the runway, Craig Green just downsized his designs. Somehow, it works.
Sibling SS16 was one of the fashion shows to begin with suits and end in decidedly casual. The formalwear was soon replaced by whimsical costuming. Football players were seen carrying pom-poms with the high fashion equivalent of a builder's bum that got a few stares.
This ability to not take themselves too seriously and subvert gender roles made for some much needed fashion fun. To their credit, they still sustained a youthful sportswear aesthetic.
(Main image Burberry SS16 from The Standard)