Suit tailoring allows its wearer to get the best fit from this wardrobe staple. Here are the top suit tailoring tips to achieve the best finish.
Twenty Suit Tailoring Tips
Interest in menswear has been growing in recent years as seen by the popularity of LC: M but some garments are here to stay. The suit is a key part of any man’s wardrobe.
Getting the best fit requires attention to detail and the best way to achieve this is by going to your friendly tailoring service. These suit tailoring tips can make the most of any suit. Like Tom Ford says:
The first indicator when it comes to wearing a suit is if it’s comfortable. Most suits are not bought for one-wear. In fact, many suits are intended for everyday use so comfort is key.
If you can’t move and even sit comfortably then the suit is not for you. Suit tailoring can help but be aware. Walk around and sit down to test movement.
One of the biggest suit tailoring faux pas is ill-fitting shoulders. They should fit snugly and not over-hang.
Otherwise, misaligned shoulders are noticeable and can look slouchy. For sartorial splendour you can get this issue rectified.
When going to a fitting it’s best to wear the dress shirt that you plan to wear with this suit. Then you can see if there’s a gap between the lapel and the shirt collar.
A suit isn’t just one item. Instead each piece of a suit works together. Therefore, a good fitting jacket should leave no gap. Put This On discusses this problem in further detail.
A good rule of thumb is to match the width of your tie to the width of your lapel. This keeps each piece in proportion.
Check that the under-arms aren’t too tight, however, as this can cause discomfort. It will affect your movement and could cause a tear.
A common clothing alteration is to slim the arms which gives a suit added personalisation. A well-fit and slimmer arm can make a suit look better regardless of its original price.
Your shirt cuff should be visible by a quarter of an inch to half an inch. Again, the jacket frames the suit whilst allowing it to be seen.
Likewise, you want across the back to fit without being too tight. It can be difficult to balance all these aspects but that’s where a good tailor can come in.
The chest is one of the most noticeable places where a suit can appear too tight or too loose. If the movement tests didn’t make the fit apparent then try mirrors from multiple angles. This can show you where the extra (or lack thereof) fabric is then adjustments can be made accordingly.
Your suit should match your shape and this includes the waist. Cinching at the waist creates a V-shape and prevents the finish from being slouchy or boxy.
One back vent or two is down to personal preference. A double-vent, however, can work well on bigger frames and allow for more movement.
12. Overall Fit
The overall fit should allow for your hand to fit nicely between you and the suit jacket when it’s closed. This not only allows for movement but also layers in colder months.
The placement of buttons on a suit jacket can dictate the fit. The top button of a two-button or the middle button of a three-button jacket should fall at or above the navel.
14. Working Buttons
The number of buttons is likewise a personal preference. To keep them looking good, however, undo the buttons before sitting down. Otherwise, this can cause added wear and tear to the suit.
15. Jacket Length
A jacket that is too long can make legs look shorter. Therefore, getting it fitted can keep your body in proportion.
16. Jacket Maintenance
Never fasten the buttons on your jacket when you put it on a hanger. This creates a crease at the wrong place.
Waistcoats should reach your belt but it’s a good idea to keep the bottom button undone at all times. Again this prevents wear and tear as well as looking better.
18. Leg Fit
The amount of break at the bottom of your trouser leg depends on the fit. The slimmer the fit of the leg, the less break that is needed.
If you’re trying a shorter leg then think twice because it’s easier to shorten than it is to lengthen. A tailor can pin the leg so you can see how it will look beforehand.
20. Hanging Trousers
Then it’s just about hanging your suit trousers and Savile Row have a time-honoured technique to maintain the suit.